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Frequently Asked Questions
Systems upgrade — accounts & order history
After 10 years, we are rebuilding our whole setup. That includes moving artist accounts onto a new infrastructure.
There are around 500,000 accounts to move, and we are doing it carefully so your data stays safe. It is a slow job.
It may take a few weeks while we work through everyone.
No. We still have a record of your orders.
Shipping updates — UK/EU & US
Yes. We have upgraded our UK sending setup with more robust systems for EU orders.
When the new US tariffs came in, a lot of orders were held up and returned. That caused a big backlog.
We now have a space sending orders out directly from the US, which should make things smoother.
Yes. Our first space was on Grade Lane and ended up in the crash site last November. None of our team were hurt, but the disruption took months to work through.
Black 4.0
Black 4.0 is our ultra-matte black paint. It is so black it eats light and looks like a velvet void, absorbing over 99% of visible light.
Black 3.0 was exciting but could be unstable. Painted too thick, it could trap moisture and form salty white crystals. Black 4.0 fixes those issues and gives deeper, more stable coverage. Black 3.0 is now discontinued.
People have, but it is not a permanent outdoor paint. To keep the ultra-matte look, the surface needs to stay unsealed, so outdoors or on cars it will wear or fade over time. You can retouch it. It is best for indoor work, temporary finishes, shows, and experiments.
No. Any varnish, resin, or coating adds shine and ruins the effect. To keep the void look, it has to stay unsealed.
Use a soft synthetic brush and apply very thin, even coats. Let each coat dry at least 2 hours, overnight is best. For porous surfaces, seal first with 25% PVA and 75% water and let it dry overnight. For shiny or slick surfaces, use Black 2.0 or a matte primer first. Black 2.0 is the best primer for Black 4.0. Thin only with a little water and avoid flow additives or mediums that add shine.
- Recommended brushes: Liquitex Freestyle, Pro-Arte Sterling, Coltman, or Cryla
- Too much water can mess with the formula
Yes. Thin it with up to 40% water for airbrushing. You will need to test your nozzle and ratio to find what works best.
- ● 60 ml covers about 1 m²
- ● 150 ml covers about 2 m²
Yes. It is non-toxic, vegan-friendly, and people-safe. It is not edible and it is not fire-retardant.
No. This is the world's blackest paint. Vantablack is a lab process, not a paint.
Because Black 4.0 was made to be available to everyone, except Anish Kapoor. That is the rule.
This usually comes down to application. Very thin coats and proper surface prep make a huge difference. Stuart's how-to video is here. If you are still stuck, tell us what you are trying to make and we will help.
Yes. Use a screenprinting medium to stop it clogging the screen and get crisper results. Use it sparingly, as it may slightly reduce the matte effect.
Not really. On fabric it will soak in and crack, and you cannot protect it with a varnish without ruining the finish. It can stick to leather, but it is very fragile and will scratch off easily.
It can work, but most pouring mediums add gloss, so you will lose the black hole effect.
We do not recommend heating it to 100°C. It may give off nasty fumes.
No, it should be fine.
It contains a tiny bit of carbon. It is not really conductive, but it depends on what you are doing. If you are working on specialised electronics, it is probably not the best paint for that.
Black 2.0
No, sadly. It is too fragile for a vehicle, and there is no clear varnish matte enough to protect it without ruining the effect.
No. It is not waterproof, so it will get damaged outdoors and near water. A clear coat will also ruin the finish.
No. Epoxy resin and clear varnish will damage the effect. We do not recommend mixing it into resin, varnish, or other paints.
We have not properly tested it. In theory it should not conduct, but someone has reported a bit of current. If conductivity matters for your project, assume it is not reliable for electronics.
Yes. Thin it with up to 40% water. You will need to experiment with nozzle size and ratio.
Yes, but it will scratch off easily because you cannot seal it with a varnish without ruining the matte effect.
For porous surfaces, seal with 25% PVA and 75% water and let it dry overnight. For non-porous surfaces, use a primer. Then apply Black 2.0 in very thin coats and let it fully dry before adding another.
Yes, up to 40% water.
No. It will ruin the effect.
Acrylics work well with it. Best not to mix with oils. Pastels and pencils should work well over it.
No. It will soak in and crack, fabric medium will damage the effect, and you will not be able to wash it reliably.
It can work, but any pouring medium will usually make it glossy, so you will lose the black hole effect.
We would not suggest it. It is not waterproof, cannot be protected with a clear coat, and it will crack.
We do not suggest heating it to 100°C. It may give off nasty fumes.
No. Any varnish will ruin the effect because it adds shine.
No, it should be fine.
We do not market these paints for electronics, and we have not had it RoHS tested. We cannot guarantee it meets those requirements.
Black 2.0 vs Black 4.0
Black 2.0 is the mattest black paint available to artists, but it is not the blackest. Black 4.0 is the blackest matte acrylic paint.
Yes. Some paints can look blacker, including our Raven acrylic, but they are glossier. That means they can catch the light and look shiny.
If you want the deepest matte black, go for Black 4.0. If you want the most matte finish possible, go for Black 2.0. Stuart's video comparing the paints is here.
Got more questions? Drop us a line.